Witchcraft is a common topic in Bobirwa. People in Bobonong say that Mmadinare (the next-biggest village in our district) is full of witchcraft and zombies. People from Mmadinare (mah-dih-nar-ee) say Bobonong is full of witchcraft and zombies. Obviously, there’s a rivalry of some kind going on. While over 70% of the country considers itself Christian, there is still a strong tie to ancestry and traditional beliefs. One can see evidence of witchcraft in melted candle wax on rocky hilltops and other somewhat hidden areas on the outskirts of villages, as if ceremonies are performed in these places.

Witches create zombies. As far as I know, they do not eat brains. Zombies are created so they can work on your lands.

Anyone can be a witch. People do not accuse one another of witchcraft, because it is too dangerous. They may whisper about it behind peoples’ backs (or else how would I have heard about it?). One “finds out” that someone is a witch after that person has died and whatever curse you think was placed upon you/others has lifted. When I moved to my current house, one of the women I work with was very upset, because she believed my landlord was a witch. (No wizards or warlocks, only witches.) She did not want me to move to his property, even though he lives in a different village. I have to say that my landlord is a pretty nice guy; I don’t think he’s placed any curses. Yet. And if people suspect he’s a witch, then hopefully that will deter them from robbing me.

Witches here do not use broomsticks, as we Westerners have been shown in numerous books, movies, and tv shows. They have far more ingenious methods of travel. One of the most common, and my personal favorite, is to travel in a loaf of bread. I was at first unclear as to whether that meant one had to have a really big oven in order to make a really big loaf of bread to fit in, or if the witch needed to shrink to fit inside a regular loaf of bread. I have since learned that the latter is correct. There has been discussion as to what type/brand of bread is best. I have heard that bread from Spar (a South African grocery chain) is preferable to Choppies (pronounced with a long O, “choh-pees,” another SA chain) because it is more firm and holds up better. Pick & Pay is a 3^rd SA chain (and the best one, in my opinion), and their bread must be a wild card. I do not know whether home-made bread works well for flying or not.

Witches also often hop on a child’s back to fly to their destination. I do not know if they must shrink to do this. When they fly on a sewing needle, I believe they must shrink.

Oh, and cats are witches. I can’t tell you how many people are terrified of Akanya. Even when I first got her, when she was a tiny ball of fluff, she inspired fear in coworkers and friends of my neighbors. My neighbors laughed at how I coddled her (and still do), but their friends were afraid. Very afraid.

Ancestors are another topic that may or may not tie in to witchcraft. I haven’t figured that out yet. Basically, one can be “called by the ancestors” at any time, and when they are called, they must go. No one worries if a child goes off into the bush for days or weeks at a time, because his/her ancestors called him/her. No one is concerned about kidnapping or getting eaten by lions/hyenas, or dehydration or starvation of the missing person. It is assumed that the ancestors will take care of him. When one returns from visiting the ancestors, he may or may not remember what happened. He may also not be allowed to talk about it, if he does remember. I am still trying to learn what the ancestors do when they call one, and will update this when I can.